Summer Stories-Esther Hsu, Swaziland
MBA '09/'10 & MPA '10, OD
Issue date: 9/2/08 Section: News
Swaziland is a land of contrasts. Its capital city, Mbabane, is a manicured, modern metropolis with a supermarket better stocked than any in New York City, two shopping malls, Kentucky Fried Chicken and a health club among other amenities. During my winter stay, it was an idyllic 75 degrees and sunny every day with few exceptions. Swaziland is far safer than its neighboring countries. The roads are perfectly paved, and not just by African standards. But these luxurious roads swiftly lead to villages and homesteads where Swaziland's many challenges are painfully evident. The New Jersey-sized kingdom currently boasts the world's highest HIV incidence (officially 43%), the lowest life expectancy (31 years) and the highest percentage of orphaned children (~10% of the population). Due to income disparity, 70% of the country lives on less than US$1 per day yet the overall GDP per capita is one of the highest in Africa. There is a Parliament but the King rules with absolute power, boasting 14 wives, multiple royal residences and a private jet. In my last days in Swaziland, hundreds of Swazi women staged a march to protest the royal family's extravagant spending on international travel. At the same time, the government also poured millions into preparations for the legendary 40-40 celebration. To be held this September, the 40-40 will be a landmark holiday for Swaziland, signifying the King's 40th birthday and also 40 years of Swaziland's independence. Juxtaposed with the nation's poverty and shortage of ARV drugs to treat HIV, the purchase of fleets of BMWs for these festivities seems rather incongruous. But despite its shortcomings and criticisms, the monarchy is the root of Swazi culture and has been able to sustain Swaziland as arguably the most secure of the Southern African nations.
My life in Swaziland can be described as regular, comfortable, and carefree. In all honesty, I had prepared myself for quite the opposite- roughing it in Africa, my guard up constantly, and ready for unexpected difficulties. Instead, I had the comforts of housing set up by TechnoServe, camaraderie with other volunteers, and the luxury of traveling throughout Southern Africa. While I did spend time in the field and saw the challenges of development in Swaziland, my gooseberries project was straightforward and smoother to execute than many others. Although frustrated by the government offices' inefficiency in reporting data I needed for a crop insurance study, they eventually did come through with a little extra urging. In comparison with security risks and limited amenities in other neighboring countries, Swaziland's quality of life far exceeded expectations.
My life in Swaziland can be described as regular, comfortable, and carefree. In all honesty, I had prepared myself for quite the opposite- roughing it in Africa, my guard up constantly, and ready for unexpected difficulties. Instead, I had the comforts of housing set up by TechnoServe, camaraderie with other volunteers, and the luxury of traveling throughout Southern Africa. While I did spend time in the field and saw the challenges of development in Swaziland, my gooseberries project was straightforward and smoother to execute than many others. Although frustrated by the government offices' inefficiency in reporting data I needed for a crop insurance study, they eventually did come through with a little extra urging. In comparison with security risks and limited amenities in other neighboring countries, Swaziland's quality of life far exceeded expectations.
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