Spring Break
Hidden Paradise
A Review of Oleana Restaurant
Brenda Vongova, A&E Editor; Consultant, HBS Art Appreciation Society
Issue date: 4/30/07 Section: A&E
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Oleana Restaurant. The word, oleana, is Norwegian for "hidden paradise".
THE NUMEROUS ACCOLADES:
Winner of the 2005 Best Northeast Chef Award - James Beard Foundation.
Top 10 Restaurants in Boston - Zagat.
Top 10 Restaurants in Boston now - Concierge.
Best Outdoor Dining in 2003 - Boston Magazine.
Best Restaurant Dining in America - Brenda Vongova.
THE CUISINE:
Arabic cuisine fused with the fragrances, flavors, and techniques from North Africa, the Mediterranean, and France.
THE SIGNATURE:
Creative, evocative and inspiring dishes. Pressed Turkish Coffee. Homemade ice cream. Spice blends. Outdoor dining. Passion.
THE FRENCH TECHNIQUE:
The brilliant Chef Ana Sortun was trained at the Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne in Paris, where she acquired the attention to artistic detail in cooking and the appreciation of creating dishes with impeccably farm-fresh ingredients. In fact, Chef Sortun uses organic produce from her own farm.
THE SAMPLE MEAL:
PRET A MANGER
* Spicy Carrot Puree & Egyptian Spice Mix with Nuts & Olive Oil ($4)
APPETIZER
* Sultan's Delight; Tamarind Glazed Beef & Smokey Eggplant Purée with Pinenuts ($10)
ENTRÉE
* Lebanese Crêpe with Free-Range Veal, Yogurt & Stuffed Cabbage Leaf ($24)
THE INTERIOR ARCHITECTURE:
Warmth of a roaring fire in a small wood-burning stove. Natural wood and stone. Mediterranean colors. Handmade mosaic tabletops. Soft lighting. Chef Sortun was determined to cook for a wide variety of people in the neighborhood. Although the quality of the cuisine is high-end, the ambiance of the restaurant is comfortable warm, elegant, and natural.
THE SECRETS:
Chef Sortun purchases her dry goods from Savan in Watertown, a wonderful Turkish store. Her secrets are further shared in her cookbook, Spice: Flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean (Regan Books, 2006).
THE DESSERT:
Do not even think about skipping dessert. Pastry Chef Maureen Kilpatrick has won accolades from the New York Times and Food and Wine Magazine. Indulge in the "Baked Alaska served Coconut Ice Cream & Passion Fruit Caramel" or the "Sicilian Almond Cremolata with Warm Chocolate Panino".
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